Despite having lived in San Francisco for several years, I never made it to Locanda Osteria and Bar until a few months ago – and then discovered I loved it. Which is not surprising, given how much I love their sister restaurants of Delfina and Pizzeria Delfina. But I enjoyed it so much that I went multiple times in several weeks. Because why not.
Each time I went, though, Locanda delivered. For brunch and dinner alike, Locanda serves up delicious, hearty Italian comfort food that doesn’t disappoint. To be fair, there are some dishes that are good (but not great), then other dishes that are stellar. The great ambiance and service make up for the food shortcomings though. Locanda has a smart, but casual atmosphere with wooden chairs and tables and a classic Italian white tiled floor. Service is friendly, food is tasty, the bar has a full liquor license, so what more can you ask for? I usually don’t have trouble getting a reservation, and even if you do, they often allow walk-ins to sit at the bar. It’s quickly become one of my favorite spots in SF.
Dinner at Locanda
Similar to its sister restaurant (Delfina), Locanda is known for its homemade pasta. I recommend going with a group to try different types, but they also let you do half orders so you can get more. Because variety is the spice of life!
What I recommend getting:
- Tonnarelli “cacio e pepe”: Cacio e pepe means cheese and pepper, and tonnarelli is a version of fresh spaghetti. Not sure why it’s in quotes as the dish is just that – thin pasta tossed in cheese and pepper. This was a simple classic Italian dish that’s executed perfectly. I would recommend trying this out.
- Crescenza Tortelli: A mushroom tortellini dish that was phenomenal. I believe it’s a seasonal dish, but if you see this, definitely order it. The delicious tortellis were well seasoned, enrobed in a velvety, but not heavy mushroom sauce. If we weren’t stuffed, we would’ve ordered another full order of these.
- Bucatini all’Amatriciana: A classic pasta dish executed flawlessly. The addition of guanciale and peperoncini adds a lot to the dish. Who doesn’t love guanciale – a cured Italian meat similar to pancetta?
Feel free to pass:
- Rigatoni alla carbonara: This dish was good, but not great. Mike loves rigatoni but I’m not as much of a fan. The carbonara was good enough but nothing wowed.
- Radiatore “pecora e pecorino”: Radiatore is funny small radiator-shaped (accordion-like) pasta. Cooked al dente, it was serve with a lamb ragu sauce. Honestly I was a bit disappointed by the lack of seasoning in this dish. It would’ve benefitted by a bit more salt and a bit of spice.
We also tried a seasonal appetizer of pizza bianco (their version of a crisp focaccia) served with prosciutto, figs and a balsamic reduction. So delicious. The perfect way to start the meal.
Service with friendly and prompt. They messed up one of our half orders but quickly rectified the situation and made it okay. They dim the lights for dinner, which provides the perfect counterpoint to the wooden tables; perfect for a date or with a group of friends.
Locanda Brunch
Perhaps in part because I live nearby, and also due to the fact that it’s one of the few SF restaurants that takes reservations for brunch, Locanda has become a favorite brunch spot of mine. Perfect for a brunch with friends or even for when parents are in town, the restaurant provides a totally different vibe during the day time. It’s light and bright and airy – tables aren’t cramped together and the sun plays well with the white tiled floors and walls. It’s comfortable, service is equally good, and the food has been spot on.
Recommendations:
- A personal favorite is the Eggs in Purgatory – two baked eggs, spicy tomato sauce, pecorino, served with a grilled pizza bianca. It’s Locanda’s take on a shakshuka, served with their Italian version of challah bread. There’s just a hint of spice in the sauce, and the crispy grilled pizza Bianca is the perfect vehicle to shovel the egg and tomato goodness. I’ve tried it a couple of times now and if there’s one thing I would change is for the eggs to be cooked slightly less. There have been times when the yolks are slightly overcooked and are almost fully done instead of nice and runny. But the flavors are incredible and it’s the perfect protein and carb dish to start your day off right.
- If you’re a fan of smoked fish, I highly recommend trying out the L.E.S. bagel plate. Served with cured Scottish lox, smoked local black cod, Olsen’s herring, and a small plate of capers, greens, red onions and beets, it’s a wonderfully refined take on a New York classic.
- Definitely go for Locanda’s housemade bacon. It’s peppery and crispy and delicious. ‘Nuff said.
- Their bloody marys are pretty darn good and can be made spicier upon request.
- And if you’re feeling a bit sinful, try their amaro sticky bun. Similar to monkey bread, the bun is served warm and gooey. Decadent but oh so good, I recommend sharing one with friends for dessert.
Potential to pass:
- Their Berkshire pork saltimbocca is an interesting take on an open-faced breakfast sandwich. It’s a piece of bread, topped with prosciutto, fried egg, sage and a light gravy of sorts served with a side salad. The pork saltimbocca is panfried – a warm, salty slab of cured meat. But somehow, this dish didn’t wow me.
All in all you’ll be rewarded with a great meal and great experience when you hit up Locanda in San Francisco.
My rating of Locanda Osteria
| Overall | 4.5 out of 5 | The service and ambiance make up for the food |
| Food | 4 out of 5 | Some hits or misses, but the some were great |
| Service | 5 out of 5 | Stellar |
| Value | 5 out of 5 | Always worth it |
| Date potential | 5 out of 5 | Great date option |
| Group potential | 4 out of 5 | Good for up to 6 people |
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